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Osaka & Kyoto free & easy (part 3)

Monday, 19^th March 2018 – Ine fishing village funaya

We set off to have breakfast at this featured cafe called “Syphon Coffee & Teahouse” – but it was closed on Mondays. As a result, it was breakfast at MacDonalds again. I did not know whether I laughed or cried or both – with a muffin in my mouth. It was a cold wet day but we were determined not to let the drizzle deter our plan to visit Ine, a fishing village with houses that incorporated boat “garages”. I had seen this on Japan Hour. Now I was to visit and see it. It was a drab day but we made the most of it as the photos we took showed. After hundreds of shots, we walked along the edge of the bay, passing by the homes that housed fishing boats. We finally landed at lunch time at a restaurant with a great view of the bay. The fish there was so fresh you could taste the sea. Freshest yellowtail sashimi I have tasted!

It was cold and wet – the fire was welcome

Panoramic view on the upper floor of cafe

Chill and relax and enjoy the view – we had the cafe to ourselves

Leaving the shore to see the ocean – posing with a boat

We shopped and had dinner at Mipple shopping center, close to the ryokan we stayed in. I was looking for a pair of canvas sneakers. One caught my eye but did not have my size. Ended up buying one for about SGD$70. Later, I checked online and it was selling at SGD$163. Made my day!

Tuesday, 20^th March 2018 – Kyoto Higashiyama district

The Syphon Coffee and Teahouse in Miyazu

Wee Khoon and Karen reading while waiting for breakfast to be ready

Eunice and Peter standing beside many vintage clocks

The old English background is better than any commercial photo studio

We stayed a long while but finally its time to go

We had an English breakfast at the Syphon Coffee and Teahouse at Miyazu. This is a quaint place with an English feel, full of leather sofas and English looking furniture and antique clocks. We were happy to take pics while the food was prepared. I managed to get a studio standard shot of me in serious thought reading a magazine. The breakfast and the coffee were good and value for money.

Eat as much or little as you can or want – that is sushi!

We drove to Kyoto and returned the rental cars before taking a bus to the popular Musashi sushi restaurant. After lunch we explored Higashimaya District, which Jasmine described as a Lijiang old town like area. We walked around the vastly commercialized streets with shops that target tourists. It was crowded even though it was drizzly. We went up to the Kiyomuzedera and Yasaka Shrine after a coffee fix in Starbucks – a place we could shelter from the cold drizzle. Later a walk along Gion street led to an udon dinner at a restaurant before we retired to the excellent MyStay Hotel Kyoto Shijo.

The two shrines at the top of the old town

The night lights shimmer on the damp street

Wednesday, 21 March 2018 – Wet wet day

We searched for a famous organic vegetable restaurant Miyokoyasai Kamo that only serves the first 100 customers for its buffet restaurant. Google led us astray and we were to hungry to object to the Mosburger in front of us. Please, it’s not funny. The rest of the day was directed by the wet weather. We were supposed to go to a tea plantation and visit the Imperial Palace but ended up in shopping malls: Daimaru, Takashimaya, Vivre at the bus terminal, Daiso. No regrets – no complaints. The weather is not in our control. Make the best of time as best we can. We were beginning to feel the blues as the trip was ending.

As it was Wednesday, we were still working on hitting our AIA Vitality remaining target of 50 points – which is about 10,000 steps. We had been walking 20 to 30 kilometres these past few days.

Thursday, 22 March 2018 – the final day

We located the restaurant we missed yesterday. Today we were eager. The restaurant was closed. We were too late. They had counted their 100^th diner and he was waiting in a queue of four persons. We settled for a nearby Yoshinoya Japanese fastfood joint for breakfast.

They do not serve this set in Singapore’s Yoshinoya

It ended as it began – taking a train ride

At 11 am we checked out to make our way to another of those shopping streets for a final blitz and a goodbye lunch of Unatoto eel. After this we rode the train to the Premium Outlet one train stop before the airport. The branded goods even at outlet prices were generally still expensive. There were many young people with huge luggage bags which I am certain are full of their happy purchases. But not for me, though quite a few manage to sniff out bargain Nike, Adidas and New Balance shoes at good prices. The plane was a night flight. Cannot wait to be back.

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Osaka & Kyoto Free & Easy (part 2)

Saturday, 17^th March 2018 – Miyama Folk Village

Strangely I awoke early and my wife and I went for a crisp, cold morning walk over the bridge, leisurely taking in the sights and taking photos of the river and mountains and trees. The hotel served a lovely delicious breakfast. It was sad that we had to leave soon after that. We dragged our luggage over the bridge to the shopping street lined with shops selling confectionary and food and scores of touristy souvenirs.

I was seized by a crazy idea: to buy some Made in Japan handkerchiefs and wean away from using tissue paper. Not for any noble reason like saving the earth, but on a whim, to do something different, something old school. This has been happening. Recently I bought fountain pens and ink and started writing my journal with them. For sure it slowed down my writing!

Three drivers in this Toyota – international license needed.

Rural traditional Japanese guesthouse experience off the beaten track

Walking in the cool weather by the river

There are 39 thatched roof houses in this village

We lugged our luggage to JR Saga-arashiyama Station and transited to Kameoka Station where we went to a car rental to for a 6 seater Toyota MPV to drive to the tourism center for lunch and then to the Miyama Folk Village. We struggled to find the Matabe Minshuku guesthouse we had booked online, and walked and inquired around, when it was a mere 20 feet from where we had parked. The host welcomed us in and showed us around the tatami floored traditional farmer’s house. We distributed ourselves (male snorers, male non-snorers, and ladies) into the three rooms. As it was still evening, we explored the village with its rice-fields and unique houses with their gassho zukuri (praying hands) thatched roofs.

The husband and wife team showed us how to eat sukiyaki the Japanese way

At night, we were served farmers’ meal of chicken sukiyaki (casserole) and assorted pickles with rice . The chicken was probably a kampong chicken or an old female hen (with unhatched eggs in its body). The flesh was hard, and the casserole included many pieces of chicken innards. The meal included the ayu – a small freshwater fish of the salmon family, of about 5 inches. It is reputed to be sweet, the tastiest of all river fishes, and usually grilled, and could be eaten completely bones included.

We turned on the heaters as it was a very cold night we experienced. I was glad I had more than enough to keep myself warm in addition to the heaters.

Sunday, 18^th March 2018 – Maizuru Port Center & Amanohashidate

Breakfast with music followed by Sunday reflection

We had a poor farmer’s breakfast. That said it all. It was the Lord’s day and we had a time of worship. We sang the song, How Great Thou Art, and we reflected on Matthew chapter 4 (the temptation of Jesus) and broke into groups of two to share and pray for one another. Short but blessed time. We packed up and drove off to the next stop: the Maizaru Port Centre. There we had an unforgettable, inexpensive seafood lunch.

In Miyazu, we met a 40ish owner is the 13^th generation owner of the 300-year old ryokan. He brought us around and gave us a sense of the history and legacy of the ryokan. Evidently, he was proud of what he did. We were given a room on the ground floor with a beautiful garden view.

300 year old ryokan with a lovely garden view

Posing with the young 13th generation owner in front of his ryokan

Soon we were off again to the Amanohashidate View Land, a monorail or chairlift up the steep Mt Monju to view one of the top three scenic spots of Japan. Debatable, in my opinion. Anyway when you look down from the top you will see Amanohashidate (“bridge in heaven”) a three kilometre long sandbar isthmus that spans the mouth of Miyazu bay.

Beautiful view of the Amanohashidate (bridge in heaven)

Our great leader Jasmine, stared upside down to try to see a dragon!

Pausing along the 3km land bridge sandbar

These trees are really old. We tried to help.

At one end of the 3km sandbar – a good 45 minutes walk

Later on, we went down and hiked the narrow sandbar, which was forested with nearly 8,000 pine trees, some of them showing their ancient age and their interesting unique shapes. We had hoped to find some restaurants at the other end but the eateries were all closed. We decided to walk back and the eateries where we departed from were also closed. We went around hunting for food and ended up having MacDonald’s for dinner! Ironic: flying all the way to Japan to eat American fast food.

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Osaka & Kyoto free and easy (part 1)

Before the trip my main concern was the weather. How cold would it be? I was afraid I would be ill equipped to cope with cold weather. I prefer hot weather to cold. To be safe, I packed in three cashmeres, a woolen, several long sleeves, a long pants with fleece lining, a down vest, a jacket, a light windbreaker, gloves, a scarf and a beanie. During the trip, I had to play around with the layers day by day, and at different points in the day. It worked. However, the one thing I forgot was an umbrella. On the third day in Osaka, I bought a Made in China foldable for a few Singapore dollars.

Wednesday, 14 March 2018 – Flight to Osaka

We met at the airport at 12 noon and the flight was at 2.30pm. We arrived at about 9.20 pm. We actually lost a day in travel but saved $200 because this SIA ticket was cheaper than the overnight one. From the airport, we took a train to Hotel Nissei, Osaka where we would stay for two nights. Late supper was in an eatery that happened to be open at that late hour along a shopping street. Nothing remarkable except very friendly, young waiters.

First meal in an Osaka restaurant along a shopping street near the hotel

Thursday, 15 March 2018 – Glimpses of Osaka

Hotel breakfast was buns, hardboiled eggs, and mayonnaise mashed potato with hot coffee and tea which was fine by us, but by the second day I was happy we were changing hotels – the queen-sized bed was the size of a super-single and it creaked. We started off at 9am and explored around the hotel for a while chalking up an hour or so in a Daiso nearby. Then we went in search of an unagi (eel) restaurant near Hommachi Station (M18). It was deliciously inexpensive. Thick, tasty grilled tender flesh over fragrant Japanese rice. It’s a chain restaurant: Unatoto.

On the road train around Osaka Castle grounds

Guards at the entrance of the Osaka castle gates

Outer ring of the wall around the palace park

We then headed to Osaka Castle Park and there we were transported around the grounds in a road train. We were not keen on entering Osaka Castle, as the we have been to quite a few castles before. We wanted to look at the plum blossoms in the park and that we did.

Khoon, Daniel, Peter & Eunice, Karen at Japanese crepe dessert cafe

Jasmine (planner), Jabez, Kenny & Jenny, Deborah, Jacob

We explored a few covered shopping alleys at Barbara shopping area for an hour or so. Tea was tucking into fantastic Japanese crepe together at a cafe, and observing how uniquely fashionable the passersby were, especially the ladies.

When the weather is hot all year round like in Singapore, comfort takes priority: Polo shirts, T-shirts, bermudas, blouse and skirts. In a cold country, there was so much more you can and have to wear: hats, scarves, gloves, stockings, boots, jackets, layers of clothing, vests – it was fashion galore.

We searched for a few second-hand shops but the pre-loved clothes were all branded stuff and were too expensive. A couple did spot and purchase for their young adult sons a few Paul Frank limited edition T shirts with cute monkey prints at prices you would pay for a brand-new jacket. This was a revelation for me!

The night is young at this famous shopping area

Well known icon of the Osaka night shopping streets

From there we went to that famous street with that huge Dotonburi Glico signboard of a runner hitting the finish line, and a gigantic crab with pincers that move. We walked around there to soak the atmosphere, enjoy street food like takoyaki (octopus balls I call them) to look for our dinner, which was for me a forgettable ramen (wheat noodles with toppings). We slowly walked back to the hotel through the shopping alleys and my wife hunted for cosmetic products my daughter requested. It was a long day. We walked thousands of steps and many kilometres.

My first impressions of Osaka are that it is clean but drab with buildings that are old and boring, and in dismal shades of grey, brown and neutral colours. The grey and cloudy skies of autumn only accentuated this feeling of monotony, darkness and gloom. How do the Osaka people (15 million) survive the winters and autumns? I guess their shopping streets give some relief with their bright colours, lights (especially at night) and variety of designs.

Friday, 16^th of March 2018 – Kyoto Arashiyama and Sagano bamboo forest

In the morning, we went to a street (near Nissei Hotel) with many shoe wholesalers. Unfortunately, there was nothing interesting to buy and we moved out of our hotel at 11am and travelled to Arashiyama to be at the beautiful Sagano bamboo forest. We checked into the Arashiyama Business Hotel, a smart hotel with lovely views of the bridge and river.

Arriving at Arayashima – lovely calligraphy

So lost in photo taking! Who is missing?

A “couple” shot is mandatory is such a romantic place

We just had to take this shot with the Japanese girls

We quickly went off to search for the bamboo forest. It was a 30-minutes walk before we reached the beautiful forest. Surprisingly there weren’t that many people. Perhaps the earlier drizzles had dampened visitors’ enthusiasm. Anyway, we spent close to an hour taking pictures, and more pictures and more pictures. The path of the bamboo forest led away to houses on both sides of a path that led into the main tourist thoroughfare. There on the main street we walloped the best udon and tempura of the trip.

A beautiful forest lies within this building!

It is called a kimono forest. Ingenious.

As darkness fell we went to the kimono forest, a creative collection of gorgeous cylinder-shaped lighted-up pillars displaying kimono designs that edged both sides of the path to the tram station. I thought it was such a great idea that Singapore should adopt somewhere for tourists to shoot videos and take selfies. Should not be kimono but maybe orchid patterns of all kinds.

We ended the evening in the single men’s room with fellowship, tid-bits and thanksgiving. It was comforting that this hotel had such lovely rooms.